When I went to Mogilev, 41% of my instagram subscribers called it the ugliest city in the country (from regional). I can’t say that it somehow particularly influenced me (under the conditions of closed borders, I would go there even if it was called a sausage in batter). But I still could not help but note this moment.
“And what is the result?” — you ask. – “How is the grayest and most Soviet city of our Motherland?”
Yes, in general, nothing. I will not say that Mogilev stole my heart, but I certainly would not call it somehow repulsive. I liked the City Hall near the Dnieper, the fire museum with the 101 restaurant, the church of St. Stanislaus and public spaces near the Atrium shopping center. I made a wish on the Square of Stars, walked along the pedestrian street, noted the problems with the barrier-free environment, the abundance of old minibuses and the inscriptions “Beer for 1.5 rubles.” But during the whole trip I never regretted that I came to Mogilev.
Yes, of course, this is not Florence or Gdansk, but as a destination for a weekend And I wholeheartedly recommend him. However, let's not get ahead of ourselves. Let me show you this city, and you decide whether to go here or not.
What to see in Mogilev? Briefly
Even before the trip, I wrote for myself a list of 15 places that I would like to visit. Then he opened the map, united among themselves those places that are next to each other. And in the end, I got this Schindler's list.
- Railway Station
- Lenin Square and the former building of the NKVD
- Maslennikov Museum (Mironova, 33) + “Leva from Mogilev” (Mironova, 23)
- Shopping center “Atrium” (Pervomayskaya, 57) + Arc de Triomphe (on the same street).
All these 4 points can hardly be classified as must see. If you miss them, you won't really miss anything. But they will go one after another and smoothly bring you to the historical center. Therefore, to visit them or not – think for yourself. The real sights of Mogilev will start a little further. Here they are:
- The building of the Drama Theater (at Pervomayskaya, 7);
- Church of St. Stanislaus (hidden behind the houses directly opposite);
- Fire Lane with the museum of the same name and the restaurant “101”;
- Pedestrian Leninskaya Street and the Konissky Palace next to it;
- The city hall (Leninskaya, 1) and the “Mogilev subway” nearby.
Mogilev Drama Theater
When everyone looks, go down to the river and walk to the St. Nicholas Monastery, which is hidden in a beautiful park on Trofim Surta Street. It takes about five minutes to walk from the Town Hall and the Mogilev Underground.
On the way back, you can see the Square of Stars and make a wish at the Astrologer monument. Just don't waste your desire on Neymar's transfer to Krumkachy. I tried – this wish does not come true.
What to see in Mogilev-2. The same, but in detail
I arrived in Mogilev by train, so one of the sights of the city met me immediately after getting off the train. I'm talking about the local station, which was built in 1902 by order of the Russian Emperor Nicholas II.
During the First World War, Sergei Yesenin served as an orderly at this station. But today there is little reminiscent of those days. In 2021, Mogilev-1 is an ordinary regional station – clean, tidy, but notable except for stalls with DVDs and beer at 1.5 rubles per mug.
I wandered around here for a while, and then walked to the city center. It is 2 kilometers to Lenin Square from here, and to the Town Hall — 4. Therefore, I recommend that you take the bus at least part of the way. Buses No. 8, 9, 38, 24, 25 and 1 go to the same Lenin Square.
When you see this huge building outside the window that looks like the Minsk government palace, you can get out.
His history is inextricably linked with the 30s of the USSR. Then the border of Poland was in the Zaslavl region, and Minsk was actually a border town. Therefore, at the level of Stalin, the idea of moving the capital to Mogilev was actively promoted.
In 1938, special funds were even allocated to bring the city into a metropolitan look. But it was this decision that in many respects became fatal for Mogilev. A huge square piece of concrete appeared in the center of the city, which was supposed to house the government of the BSSR. But at the same time, the demolition of religious buildings (for example, the Church of St. Joseph) began.
Subsequently, in the period of 40 and 50 years, the process of mass demolition of historical monuments of Mogilev will continue. But I'll tell you more about this later.
In the meantime, let's return to Lenin Square. Directly opposite it is the former building of the NKVD, which now houses the Belarusian-Russian University.
According to urban legends, there were 4 underground floors under the building, but they were subsequently walled up. Also, according to rumors, there is an underground passage between the NKVD building and the government house. But, of course, I don’t know whether this is true or not.
I twirled around there a bit (since the minibus, on which I planned to go home, departed from this square), and then walked further towards Maslennikov Museum.
There is an opinion that this building is depicted on a banknote of 200 rubles. But I haven’t held that kind of money in my hands for a long time, so I won’t say anything.
If you go to the opposite end of the street, then you will see such a sculpture “Levi from Mogilev“.
Don't ask why he has domes on his chest. I wouldn't be surprised if this lion turns out to be not as simple as it seems.
But what I really liked was the Atrium Shopping Center .
It looks simple but stylish. If it were not for the plastic trees on the next street, it would be generally excellent.
About 300 meters later I caught my eye “Arch Glory”, built in 1780 in honor of the arrival of the Russian Empress Catherine II. In the 50s, it was reconstructed, the face of Lenin, the coat of arms of the USSR, was attached to it, and therefore it is now hard to believe that this arch is almost 250 years old.
In general, Mogilev changed a lot in Soviet times. The Church of St. Stanislaus was built up with houses, and therefore, if you do not know exactly where it is, you may not notice it at all. I was looking for it, but first I came across the local Dramatic Theater building (1888).
I even took a picture next to him. Now, thanks to the Mogilev Drama Theater, you know that I'm posing like a sausage.
Mogilev. Part three. All the fun.
Standing next to the theater building, look for the Metropol Hotel with your eyes. To the left of it there will be a gap between the houses. Dive in and you'll have one of the city's main attractions right ahead.
This is the St. Stanislaus Church, which was once the main Catholic church of the Russian Empire. In Soviet times, it was built up with residential buildings (which, according to popular legend, allowed it to survive).
In 1956, an archive was opened here and repairs were carried out, as a result of which a rare organ with ceramic pipes was destroyed. The frescoes on the walls were smeared with paint, but later they still managed to be partially restored. Today this baroque temple is one of the symbols of Mogilev. In my opinion, it's even more beautiful inside than outside.
Brushing the remnants of the rainbow from my eyes, I left the church behind my back and walked towards Pozharny Lane. In fact, it is right behind the temple. Dive into the archway and right in front of you will be a small courtyard with an abundance of fire equipment.
This is the Fire Museum and Restaurant 101. As it turned out later, there is also a restaurant of this franchise in Minsk. But be that as it may, the place is still cool.
And here is Leninskaya pedestrian street< /strong> did not make any special impression on me. In Minsk, Grodno, Brest and Vitebsk, pedestrian streets look much more interesting.
If you follow it to the end, you will soon see < strong>Konissky's Palace. The building is quite modest, but in Mogilev it is considered to be one of the attractions, so it would be wrong not to say a few words about it. At the end of the 18th century, the local archbishop lived here, and today the building houses a museum.
A couple of hundred meters from it begins the Square of Glory, where the local town hall stands. The first city government building appeared in Mogilev in the 16th century, but it was built of wood, so it often burned down. In 1681, the townspeople rebuilt the building in stone, but this did not save him for long. First, the town hall suffered during the Great Northern War. Then it was badly damaged during World War II. In 1953, the Mogilev executive committee of deputies decided to restore the building. But 4 years have passed and the restoration work has not begun. And already in 1957 the town hall was blown up.
The modern town hall was built in 2008. Now it is one of the main attractions of the city.
< p>I think it's beautiful.
To see the buildings that Mogilev lost forever (?), go down to the river bank. There will be an underground passage where old photographs are hung on the walls. This place is called “Mogilev subway” and here you can see what castles, churches, churches and monasteries looked like, which formed the image of the city in the past.
I don't even want to comment here. Just look what city we lost.
photo — Radzima.org
Photo — masheka.by
Returning back to the city, take a look at the Podnikolie park, where St. Nicholas Monastery (17th century) is located. Once this temple was one of the most important Orthodox shrines of the city, but in Soviet times it was seriously plundered.
Iconostases were smeared with concrete, and a prison operated in the complex itself for 4 years. In 1991, during the revival of the temple, numerous human remains were discovered here. Most likely, these are victims of Stalinist repressions.
It so happened that the last attraction I visited was Square of Stars, where a monument to the stargazer stands in front of the Radzima cinema.
It is believed that if you take his finger, you can make a wish, which is obligatory come true. Until 2020, in all these places, I usually thought of some kind of nonsense (like the return of dinosaurs). But this time my desire was extremely serious. I hope that the times when churches are turned into prisons will forever remain in the past for our country and will never be repeated.
How to find housing in Mogilev?I am writing these words after Booking and AIRBNB have officially left the Belarusian market. Therefore, now I will very briefly tell you about two alternatives to these services. I advise you to look for hotels in Mogilev here. But to be honest, there are not so many good hotels in the city. Personally, I like only two:
- The Atrium Hotel
- and the Metropol Hotel.
In my opinion, these are two the best hotels in the city.
As for rental apartments, you can see them also on the site Sutochno.ru. After the departure of AIRBNB, many landlords switched to this site. Below I will give a couple of options for example.
- Here is an inexpensive apartment on Krylenko Street (in the very center of Mogilev).
- And here are cozy apartments on Pushkinsky Prospekt.
Look at them. I think that with the help of these two sites you will easily find a suitable option for an overnight stay.
Some more tips before traveling to Mogilev?
In order not to cut off the article in mid-sentence, let's briefly go over the organizational issues.
Travel. It all depends on whether you feel sorry for 4 rubles or not. If you don't mind, then take the train. It is more expensive, but much more comfortable.
< p>At the time of publication of the article, tickets to Mogilev cost 14 BYN. You can view the schedule and buy tickets on the website RW.BY.
If you want to save some money, start your search with minibuses. Personally, I hate them with all my heart (because they are torture chambers on wheels). But on the other hand, travel in them (often) is cheaper, and there are so many flights themselves that you can leave on a trip at any time. At the time of publication of the article, tickets to Mogilev cost 10 BYN (and sometimes even 7). See 2stolicy.com for timetables and reservations.
Departure point for minibuses near Lenin Square in Mogilev
Order a tour of Mogilev in the box below. So, walking around the city with a guide, you will learn the history of cathedral frescoes and the oldest buildings in the city, listen to the legends of Mogilev and learn the dark secrets of the NKVD dungeons.
If Mogilev is not enough for you< /u>, you can expand the tourist program at the expense of several places located next to it. There is a war memorial “Buinichskoy Pole”, and the Bulgakov Palace in the agricultural town of Zhilichi. If you have something to add to my story – write in the comments.
Bye to everyone. I'm even a little surprised that you read to the end of my multi-kilometer opus.